Which 4K HDR TV are you planning to buy for Scorpio or One s?

Hmm well menu button then

Maybe we are not understanding ourselves.Explain to me how if you are using an A/R and you have one HDMI input cable in the TV,going into the one HDMI out of your receiver and the ones from your consoles and Sat, in the HDMI In of your receiver, how you can save the settings on those HDMI...? ;)

Before going 4K and HDR,it didnt bother me not being able to save the HDMI settings,because everything was 1080P(or 720 on my satllite)but now I cant do that,or I havent figured out how to do it.
 
Maybe we are not understanding ourselves.Explain to me how if you are using an A/R and you have one HDMI input cable in the TV,going into the one HDMI out of your receiver and the ones from your consoles and Sat, in the HDMI In of your receiver, how you can save the settings on those HDMI...? ;)

Before going 4K and HDR,it didnt bother me not being able to save the HDMI settings,because everything was 1080P(or 720 on my satllite)but now I cant do that,or I havent figured out how to do it.
The TV stores multiple setting on each HDMI.
 
The best picture quality on the market, LG OLEDs won both TV shootouts in the US and UK. I have a C6 and it’s beautiful.

Most modern AV's support HDMI 2.0 pass through.
I recommend Pioneer,Yamaha or Denon.

Cheers chaps, going with the LG C7 65' and the Yamaha RX-A770BL.

Picking up both on Tuesday.

Will get some pictures up of the new setups as soon as both are good to go.
 
Cheers chaps, going with the LG C7 65' and the Yamaha RX-A770BL.

Picking up both on Tuesday.

Will get some pictures up of the new setups as soon as both are good to go.

Nice! Just picked up a 65” B7 a few weeks ago. It’s great! I almost did C7 but understood that if you’re going with external sound system, there isn’t a difference between a B7 and C7 outside of the stand. C7 has Atmos TV speakers but they both do Atmos to external systems.
 
VaLLiancE Here are the pictures demonstrating what I was talking about. I'm not even going to bother to label them (other than the one I took with the setting on screen) but you can immediately tell that by default there is part of the output image missing with "Fit to Screen" turned off. Zero character/hud changes on any of these shots.

So if I keep this setting off, at least on my TV, you miss out on part of the screen. This is my 3rd Samsung and it's exactly like that on each one dating back at least 10 years.
MT5nrdU.jpg

KlL2fDB.jpg

s21dlmI.jpg

obwoBoO.jpg

e4rd56x.jpg

JhGfeqg.jpg
 
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VaLLiancE Here are the pictures demonstrating what I was talking about. I'm not even going to bother to label them (other than the one I took with the setting on screen) but you can immediately tell that by default there is part of the output image missing with "Fit to Screen" turned off. Zero character/hud changes on any of these shots.

So if I keep this setting off, at least on my TV, you miss out on part of the screen. This is my 3rd Samsung and it's exactly like that on each one dating back at least 10 years.
MT5nrdU.jpg

KlL2fDB.jpg

s21dlmI.jpg

obwoBoO.jpg

e4rd56x.jpg

JhGfeqg.jpg
The name of the mode is different and sounds like a mode that would over stretch the screen.
By looking at your pics it seems the mode you are talking about is exactly like the one i am talking about its just the wording is different.
 
It would be nice it was all standardized terminology but I just wanted to show that it definitely works differently on mine than you would expect.
 
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Don't think this will work but I never tried the extra HDMI on the XBox,will try that later...I think to get HDR you will need optical to get sound the way you are set up,you should be fine if you use port 1 and 4 for 4K but with no HDR...not sure though,will mess around today with all this again.

Also what the hell is ARC(I will research this today lol) maybe if I hook that HDMI to the main HDMI on my A/V receiver,sound will work on my PC and satellitte(set top cable box)...?
Got the tv over a week ago, but barely touched it as I was out of town for half of it.

But I got it to work without buying extra gear.

- Cable box to Xbox One X = uses old HDMI cable
- Xbox One X to 4k tv = uses the 4k HDMI it comes with hooked up to HDMI 2 (something about HDMI 2 and 3 are enhanced ports)
- 4k tv to 1080p BR home theatre = using old HDMI connecting the tv's HDMI 3 ARC port to my Panny home theatra system's HDMI ARC port

And everything works!
 
Enjoying the Sony 900e. Just a few notes:

- The initial set up and menu screen with all the colourful boxes was a pain
- Probably the worst remote control ever
- Constant bugging about software updates
- Great build quality/ports/picture quality
- Still messing with the settings, but turned brightness to 25. It's a very bright tv and if you watch something like hockey, a high brightness setting leads to you staring at blinding white light
- Messed with motion settings to max out soap opera effect. I think I did the right thing setting it to custom and maxing out the smoothness slider, though there is also a preset option called "Smooth". I didn't notice a difference. If there is, it must be small
- My old Panny plasma had great natural motion already though it didn't have extra features to make it extra smooth, so this extra motion smoothing is great though I notice not all tvs show get the effect. Most channels get extra smoothing, but some things don't seem to get affected. I notice lack of extra smoothing motion the most watching sports replays. Live sports, talk shows, tv ads etc.... almost always get extra smooth, but some things like old tv shows or sports footage are no smoother than an old tv. Reading up on it, some people say the affect depends on the source... but not sure why it affects some things and not others

Didn't really know which game to test first, so I tried Gears 4. Even the title page looks fantastic. You can really see the 4k work as you can even see the dude's skin pores clearly.
 
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Again,so disappointed with the HDR on Netflix...I just watched Bright and it's just way too dark...just at the start when they are inside the house during the day,you can barely see their faces and most of the film is at night or dark area's so its this dark brown all over...is there a way to disable HDR in Netflix...I will try tomorrow to disable HDR if I go in the TV settings or bring that brightness down that's turned to max automatically,where its says HDR auto etc etc...it just looks awful,plain 4K is great and even plain HD but this HDR stuff,man is it bad...upscaled 720P to 4K from my satellite looks better lol(on the 900E)
 
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Again,so disappointed with the HDR on Netflix...I just watched Bright and it's just way too dark...just at the start when they are inside the house during the day,you can barely see their faces and most of the film is at night or dark area's so its this dark brown all over...is there a way to disable HDR in Netflix...I will try tomorrow to disable HDR if I go in the TV settings or bring that brightness down that's turned to max automatically,where its says HDR auto etc etc...it just looks awful,plain 4K is great and even plain HD but this HDR stuff,man is it bad...upscaled 720P to 4K from my satellite looks better lol(on the 900E)
Try my settings?
 
Try my settings?

I did..it helps a bit but it's still too dark for me...I understand what they are trying to do with HDR,like in the kitchen scene,the light from outside coming through the windows and blinds looks great and all but I cant say I am crazy about the overall HDR look,outside of games so far...guess I will need to get use to it.

I also tried your game mode settings and its great...I dont mind input lag that much but on some games now,it really shows...playing Hellblade Sensua's Sacrifice yesterday and you need quick input reaction for the combat and I couldnt stand the lag so I tried Game Mode and its better now for sure...I like a mild soap opera effect for my TV show viewing though so True Cinema for Motionflow I dont like,too much judder,I have it at Standard and Cinemotion on high or medium.
 
I did..it helps a bit but it's still too dark for me...I understand what they are trying to do with HDR,like in the kitchen scene,the light from outside coming through the windows and blinds looks great and all but I cant say I am crazy about the overall HDR look,outside of games so far...guess I will need to get use to it.

I also tried your game mode settings and its great...I dont mind input lag that much but on some games now,it really shows...playing Hellblade Sensua's Sacrifice yesterday and you need quick input reaction for the combat and I couldnt stand the lag so I tried Game Mode and its better now for sure...I like a mild soap opera effect for my TV show viewing though so True Cinema for Motionflow I dont like,too much judder,I have it at Standard and Cinemotion on high or medium.
I'm still messing with settings.

I find the default settings on my old Panny Plasma much better. This new Sony tv is solid, but the colours can be all over the place watching normal tv. Some things can be so blinding bright and neon-ish, I've had to decrease the colour slider and decrease the brightness. There is no way, the makers of the tv ad or tv show want it this blinding bright. And the default tv settings aren't even at max to begin with. I find the tv's moderate default settings too bright already.

And for one slider in the Motion menus.... I think it was Clearness. You'd think adjusting the clearness setting would make images a bit more clear or a bit more blurry. However, adjusting the slider it makes the colours darker or brighter. Weird.
 
Again,so disappointed with the HDR on Netflix...I just watched Bright and it's just way too dark...just at the start when they are inside the house during the day,you can barely see their faces and most of the film is at night or dark area's so its this dark brown all over...is there a way to disable HDR in Netflix...I will try tomorrow to disable HDR if I go in the TV settings or bring that brightness down that's turned to max automatically,where its says HDR auto etc etc...it just looks awful,plain 4K is great and even plain HD but this HDR stuff,man is it bad...upscaled 720P to 4K from my satellite looks better lol(on the 900E)

Looks fine on my set, I just watched that movie last night. Maybe there's a problem with the app? I'd try uninstalling and reinstalling maybe.
 
Nice post on OLED burn-in:

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-ol...m_source=AVSForum.com20171228#/topics/2910560

Has anyone here had any problems yet?

John1948

As background, after earning a Ph. D. in chemistry, I worked in the flat panel display for over a decade, many years of which were specifically focused on OLED display technology. As such, when I purchased two LG OLED55E6P sets, one in 2016 and one in early 2017, I was well aware of the potential of irreversible OLED pixel aging ("burn in") occurring if the technology was not implemented correctly (i.e pixel shifting of static images, etc) or through user abuse (i.e. displaying static images at full brightness for extended periods of time.

LG has gone on record (http://www.lg.com/us/experience-tvs/oled-tv/reliability) indicating that "burn in" is rare except under extended display of a static image at peak brightness conditions. Accordingly, from "day one" on both sets, I have routinely, and almost exclusively to date, used the LG default APS setting when viewing content that displays static content such as logos, banners, etc. Both sets, so far have been used to view primarily cable content such as CNN, MSNBC, and other miscellaneous channels with the usual channel surfing.

Fast forward to today:

1) In the case of the older set, with approximately 825 hours of viewing time, I have not been able to detect any evidence of "burn in" when displaying a uniform red background

2) In the case of the newer set however, with only approximately 675 hours of viewing time, I have seen definite evidence of "burn in" when displaying a uniform red background (the CNN logo and banner).

3) At LG's direction, after I have completing numerous (approximately seven) manual, one hour, compensation cycles on the set displaying the "burned in" CNN logo/banner image, the "burn in" has been reduced but is still detectable.

Bottom Line:

1) In my experience, despite LG's assurances (http://www.lg.com/us/experience-tvs/oled-tv/reliability) the risk of 'burn in" in LG's 2016 OLED sets is real even if the sets are used at low power APS display settings with content that includes static images (i.e. almost all cable tv channels)

2) Multiple extended LG's compensation cycles did not eliminate "burn in" in my case, even when the apparent "burn in" resulted from low power settings

3) Based upon the fact that one of my OLED55E6P sets displays 'burn in" and the other does not after similar use, it is possible that there is enough LG OLED panel to panel variability that some panels are significantly more susceptible to "burn in" than others. Unfortunately, in contrast to initial panel uniformity, the results of this variabilty will likely not show up until the return period has long expired.

4) LG states: "It is rare for an average TV consumer to create an environment that could result in burn-in. Most cases of burn-in in televisions is a result of static images or on-screen elements displaying on the screen uninterrupted for many hours or days at a time ? with brightness typically at peak levels". In my case, I would strongly disagree with this claim.

5) After explaining this situation to LG in detail, LG refused to offer any assistance, simply stating it does not warrant against "burn in" regardless of the circumstances.

My Conclusion:

Before buying an OLED TV from LG, repeat the phrase "caveat emptor" three times.....
 
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Some issues with the Sony 900e tv...... Unlike my old set up which was Xbox and two Panasonic gadgets (tv and home theatre) which ran fine, the Sony tv doesn't always seem to handshake well with ARC. Sometimes turning on Xbox turns them all on, sometimes it doesn't and I have to manually turn on the tv and/or home theatre.

I have all the gadgets set properly in the device controls menu too.
 
You turned HDMI Enhanced on? You are using HDMI 3?
Ya. My link is this. It works most of the time, but sometimes it just doesn't all connect and turn on/off at the same time.

- Cable box into X using old HDMI cable (no issues)

- X to 4k tv using 4k HDMI cable into HDMI 2 (no issues.... great visuals). TV set to HDMI enhanced mode

- 4k tv to Panny home theatre using old HDMI cord. From the tv's HDMI 3 ARC port to home theatre systems ARC port (for sound). Sometimes it all handshakes, sometimes it doesn't. Using X's device menu, X recognizes all the gadgets too so it seems ok there
 
4K HDR is kind of a pain when some of your sources are not 4k...I constantly have to switch the enhanced HDMI back and forth with standard because my satellite has no sound if I leave it on Enhanced...then theres the fact that since I go through an AV Receiver,I cant save settings...so I found a setting that looks good on my 4 devices and I switch MotionFlow and Cinemotion off when I game...
 
I think I found the solution to the handshaking issue.... though it's only been test late last night and today, and it works.

In the device control menu where you specify what happens when you turn Xbox on..... TV/AV on, off, toggle, I used to have the TV and AV set at on and off. When Xbox is turned on, they turn on, when I shut down Xbox, they go off.

But I set them now to toggle. And it works.

The options screen even says if On/Off don't work, try toggle. And so far, it works.

My old Panny plasma with Panny home theatre had the settings at on/off and it all worked. Maybe with unmatching brands (TV = Sony, AV = Panny), it leads to sporadic handshake issues. Who knows,